Frequently Asked Questions
Our success is based on your satisfaction! If you have a question that is not included on this page, please contact us!
All questions regarding Gun Butter also apply to Bike Butter and Reel Butter
Gun Butter is an exotic blend of the finest synthetic lubricants available anywhere in the world. Gun Butter’s creation was inspired by shooters who desired consistent function in their shotgun, rifle, and pistol competitions during extreme shooting conditions. Gun Butter was created by an aerospace design team using a Continuous Quality Improvement Process to specifically engineer a complete lubricant for guns.
Gun Butter will not harm your firearm but rather enhance proper break-in and add superior protection – regardless of the gun’s materials.
Rust protection in 100% relative humidity in excess of two years, no rust.
Use sparingly, one bottle of Gun Butter should last for a year of constant weekend shooting. One bottle of Bike Butter should last one full season of continuous racing or two to three years of regular use. One bottle of Reel Butter will last two to three years of continuous use. Long time storage will not diminish quality or function.
This is a trade secret but we and our customers are delighted by this benefit.
Clean with a non-lubricant solvent (such as Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber- synthetic safe);
, after drying then apply Gun Butter. After shooting with Gun Butter solvents are no longer necessary.
Simply use a AR-15 type nylon bristle brush then wipe with a cloth or paper towels and Q-Tips. Then lube again with Gun Butter and you are ready to go.
We do not recommend mixing various lubricants as their presence can possibly diminish the maximum performance afforded by Gun Butter.
Here is the suggested application for the 1911 pistol. The application techniques may be translated and adjusted according to your need and usage:
Clean entire gun minus grips with a non-lubricated solvent (such as Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber-synthetic safe);
then blow dry or towel wipe dry.
Shake well before each day’s usage
1. Lube (micro-mono layer) lightly the sides of the hammer & sear. Normal (sparingly) usage on the contact points of the sear and hammer hooks, half-cock, and the same for the disconnector. Lightly lube the pin holes in the hammer and sear, pivot under hammer for strut, and end of hammer strut – top of mainspring cap. Do not lube trigger bow channel or inside pistol frame. Do not apply on magazines interior or exterior. If there is a problem; have a gunsmith check the clearance to eliminate sticking.
2. Lightly lube rails inside and out, add to disconnector railway and groove (micro-mono layer) in the slide.
3. Lube upper locking lugs on the slide and barrel.
4. Lube lower locking lug on barrel, pivot pin and inside slide stop hole.
5. Apply a ring around the tip of barrel about 3/8″ from muzzle.
6. Once assembled apply a line on the barrel hood front across and a line down center of the hood front to back. Rack a few times and wipe off the excess.
Solvents should not be necessary for cleanup after proper initial preparation and Gun Butter use.
Gun Butter may be used as a cleaner and will loosen and lift contaminants making wiping or washing a viable solution to complete refreshing. Use a nylon bristle brush AR-15 type works well, tea-shirt material, and Q-tips, etc.
Cleaning is recommended after each days shooting, if possible. If not lightly reapply to major wear and contact areas for refreshing during extended shooting or competition.
During extreme conditions re-apply to barrel tip and hood and a dab in the exposed slide rails at the back of pistol, while in a slide – lock position, about every four stages or so.
If extreme cold (-40 degrees F. or below) is encountered or expected ensure a micro-mono layer is applied to sliding contact surfaces. Function is assured in extreme cold and freezing conditions; full high performance capabilities will accelerate and be realized instantaneously as weapon fire commences.
Need help installing your SMI LPK? Watch this tutorial and become a master!
Too much lube is bad; it can slow down the performance capabilities of your weapon.
Too little lube is bad but not what it seems with Gun Butter. If a tint of red is visible you can be assured of placement and readiness. In the field, a couple of drops on key areas should refresh performance and confidence of function.
With proper cleaning and Gun Butter applied “crud” will be reduced and help decrease malfunctions.
So, how to do it?
Clean all parts with a non-lubricated solvent such as Brake Cleaner or carburetor cleaner.
This will prepare all working parts for Gun Butter.
Blow dry with high pressure air orwipe off all excess and let dry.
Sparingly lubricate , think of a monolayer of lube. Unlike conventional lubes Gun Butter functions best and will last with a mono layer on the weapon’s sliding and contact surfaces (bolt body including the lugs, bolt carrier, cam pin & cam, upper receiver surfaces, and charging handle). The Gun Butter will not dry out. Gun Butter may be used in the chamber and bore. Total protection and performance no longer depends on excessive amounts of lube. The bolt Plunger may be lightly lubed.
No other lubricant can do the job of Gun Butter better and their presence could possibly diminish maximum performance.
Rust protection for 100% relative humidity in excess of two years, no rust.
Gun Butter will function in freezing weather and not evaporate or dry out with extreme heat and tends to repel dust and dirt.
If extreme cold (30 degrees F. or below) is encountered or expected ensure a micro-mono layer is applied to sliding contact surfaces. Function is assured in extreme cold and freezing conditions; full high performance capabilities will accelerate and be realized instantaneously as weapon fire commences.
Oh, and put a “light amount” of Gun Butter in the buffer spring, buffer & tube. It’ll move smoother, quicker, and quieter, and will protect better than molybdenum grease on all surfaces including the aluminum buffer tube with that hardened steel spring grating back & forth with every shot!
**Click an image to enlarge**
Gun Butter’s Trigger and Locking Lug Grease is a new technology reducing the moment of inertia in moving parts and protection of high impact surfaces.
It will out perform conventional graphite and molly greases and offers many times the adhesion.” Trigger Butter” was used exclusively for years in competition by our team. Now blessed by our professional shooters, Gun Butter’s Trigger and Locking Lug Grease, is now available for the first time to all shooters of any level concerned with protection and performance.
Placed in hammer hooks
Sear tip and pressure pads/contact points
The sear spring tip
Upper and lower locking lugs on the barrel
Also suggested for use on the hammer strut contact point with the cup for the hammer spring.
Note: We do not recommend use on slides surfaces, as the performance of Gun Butter Oil alone is optimal.
Gun Butter does not run, yet will shuttle debris from the mechanisms while firing. Gun Butter’s special formularization has specific ingredients to perform as only it can in extreme temperature ranges and environments. It will also smooth and quiet your mechanisms as never before. Please use as recommended or experiment to find the optimum performance for your needs during practice sessions.
The grease is the icing on the cake to smoothness concerning trigger / sear contact points and applications, such as in the locking lugs. The grease is applied in mono micro layers were used and I recommend placing a little Gun Butter Oil on top of the grease before assembly. Also, use the oil on the sides of the hammer and sear only to avoid sticktion and assure total performance. Gun Butter oil can and should be used everywhere lubrication is mandated. All Gun Butter products are engineered to play well with each other.
The consensus from Special Forces’ use in Iraq revealed, “Gun Butter worked every where every time”. This is echoed by our professional shooters use in competitive shooting and our valued customers of every venue.
Note: If anything other than stellar performance is experienced; ensure the weapon was cleaned properly with a non-lubricated solvent and not over-lubed or mixed in combination with other lubricants, which can diminish maximum cyclic rate and longevity of parts and performance. Total protection no longer depends on excessive amounts of lube.
We found this video on You Tube made by one of our dealers, Tactical Response Gear. In this video, they are using the Trigger & Locking Lug Grease; however, we do not recommend its use on the rails. Simply lube with the regular Gun Butter Oil, which will not drip or run once initial cycling and a light rub off any excess.
Here is a pictioral about cleaning the bore and basic cleaning: http://attrition.org/technical/firearms/357clean/.
The Gun Butter Trigger and Locking Lug Grease is the perfect application to the main bearing surfaces in the open and closing areas where the barrels are connected; and the cocking lever pressure points. The T&LLG can also be placed in the hammer hooks to ensure a clean trigger let-off.
The GB oil is for all other moving parts including the cocking lever pins in the receiver and opening tang. Apply a mono micro layer of the oil occasionally to the entire leaf spring surfaces; to ensure a useful service length and lack of deterioration due to the elements.
These tend to rust and break unexpectedly. On a cylindrical hammer springs system; a dab will ensure consistency and life. On a Perazzi type, firing pin set-up a dab on the sides of the pins will ensure consistence and lack of wear.
To remove debris or containments in the light’s treads:
Clean the threads by wrapping a cotton cloth around the male threads and unscrewing the light from the cloth counter-clockwise several revolutions. A Q-tip may be used on the female threads; starting at the bottom of the treads and turning the light barrel clockwise while hold the Q-tip steady.
Next place several drops on the male threads and a light coat on the o-ring by wiping a micro layer using your finger tip. Screw the cap on and off and repeat the cloth and Q-tip cleaning to assure all debris has been loosened and removed.
Finish by applying a small drop or two at the first portion of the male threads. The cap should assemble smoother and not need repeating for a very long time.